This past Tuesday night, I had a blast at the Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar. Tony Guida has been conducting the Seminar for more than 25 years. The group meets every Tuesday night (except for the weeks of December 25th and January 1st) at St. Patrick’s Episcopal Church at 4700 Whitehaven Pky, between Foxhall Road and Macarthur Blvd.
7:45: I stroll into a big cafeteria crammed with gray-haired oenophiles chatting at ten round tables. I catch up with a stern-looking woman speed-walking around the room and delivering bottles. “Hey, I’m new,” I say.
She ignores me.
“What do I do?”
“Grab a glass and sit down.” She claws two more bottles with the gravity of a mother bird hunting worms for her young, and flies away.
There will be no red carpet to match the wine tonight.
I just hope I’ll fit in. I’m among wine connoisseurs at the Washington Wine & Cheese Seminar, held every week at St. Patrick’s Episcopal Church in Northwest DC. But my only wine-related talent is remembering right before I ring the doorbell at housewarming parties to peel the price-tag of my $9 bottle. And, wine naivety aside, how am I going to get along with a crowd so well-aged?
7:55: Lynne, the woman who provided my hero’s welcome, now stands at the front of the room. “The theme of the night,” she announces to the crowd, “is Big Assed Reds.”
Her pre-game show covers tonight’s line-up of all-star wines. The first three, Migliore, Milagro, and Meritage, come from a classic winery in the Sierra Foothills called Boeger. As she describes the wines, the room becomes so quiet that I notice a faint scratching noise. People are diligently taking notes. I remind myself to hold my glass by the stem.
Next product to hit the market: wine energy drink?
Lynne talks about two more wines, both Zinfandels with intimidating names: Zinzilla and Zinister. Their labels depict monsters with glowing eye-sockets. There is reason for fear: “Alcohol content, 16 percent,” Lynne warns.
The crowd erupts. “Yeah!” says a man behind me who appears to be in his 80s. “That’s one big-assed red!” someone else shouts. “As advertised!” Easy there. It’s Tuesday night. Am I surrounded by grape scholars or wine-hat wearing alkies?
8:40: My concerns about fitting in have disappeared along with the contents of my third glass, and I’m fully engaged in a spirited debate about the best Boeger. As my buzz gets stronger, I’m increasingly confident no one can tell I know nothing about wine.
I find out that all three Boegers are actually mixes of three reds. My favorite is the Milagro, which combines Tempranillo (61%), Graciano (34%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%), and has a really smooth finish. It’s made in the traditional style of the Rioja region of Spain, which is known for an annual battle in which the locals shoot each other with wine-filled water pistols.
“Oh it’s not nearly as good as the Meritage,” says John, a retiree from Virginia sitting to my right. He’s referring to the Bourdeaux style blend with notes of black pepper, anise, peppermint, green bell pepper and vanilla. I should trust his opinion. He’s been coming to the Wine Seminar for a couple years.
“A couple years?” says Carson, another retired Virginian to my right. “More like a couple decades!”
Given John’s 2-20 year tenure, he seems qualified to recommend me a strategy for learning about wine. “Try about 300 wines,” he says. I wonder about the timetable for this initial assignment. “Then you got to subscribe to Wine Spectator magazine. And here’s the most important thing: find a good wine store with a good wine mentor.”
For that role, I have my eye on Lynne, who judges wine competitions all over the country. Having already kicked off the Seminar, she’s now free to enjoy the festivities. She stops by the table, gives me a big hello and joins our debate about the best Boeger. Actually, she has two opinions: personal preference, and the more objective, expert position she relies on for competitions. By my count, the number of opinions at our table is now 322.
9:30: We are into the high-octane Zins, and people are opening up. John reveals his secret for a perceptive palate: “Don’t brush your teeth before you drink.”
We go around the table naming our favorite Zins. Right when it’s my turn, I unfortunately have to attend to my iPhone.
McNab Ridge, the winery in Mendocino County that makes Zinzilla, describes it as a “jammy monster that might color your teeth.” It tastes of raspberries, chocolate, and spice. Zinister is another McNab product: 80% Zinfandel, 20% Petite Sirah from Napoli Vineyard, and “seriously sinister.”
Both Zins get unanimous approval from our table. Whereas food tastes best on an empty stomach, I suspect a very different relationship between consuming and appreciating wine.
9:45: Carson and his wife Mary suddenly stand up.
“Where do you guys think you’re going?” I ask.
“We drank the wine, now we go,” says Carson, and the rest of table starts putting on their coats, too. I’m told that what follows is a Wine Seminar tradition: bickering over who gets the leftover wine. “Reid, what wine do you want?” asks Tom.
“I’d like the Bourdeaux.”
“Well, actually, I’m taking the Bourdeaux,” explains Tom.
Somehow I snag a quarter-bottle of Zinzilla and some asiago pressato. Deserted, I decide to sit at another table. Limited by blurry vision and shaky legs, I settle on the one right next to me. The new table is happy to accept the intrusion, especially when they see the wine and cheese in my tote.
I get to talking with three women who are about my age – a guy I met earlier named Howard walks by and gives me a big smile and thumbs-up. The girls know each other from a wine club. “Well, actually it was a book club, but no one reads the books so we just sit around and drink wine.”
I wonder if everyone's had enough to drink. One of the girls asks me, “Matt, do you have a hair growing into your brain?” I stand up to go.
10:15: As I’m walking back to my car, I run into Howard. “Before I started coming here,” he says, “all I knew about wine was the Manischewitz I had before dinner every night. I’ve learned a lot. Maybe one day I’ll be a master.”
I don’t know about Howard, but I only have 295 wines to go.